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Pouring L'amour: North Carolina winemaking returns to vintage form at Green Creek Winery
Traveling the mountains by train from the 1920’s to the 1940’s had its rewards — sweet moist grapes grown in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The crisp mountain air was buffered by the surrounding mountains, creating a temperate climate for growing clusters of violet, crimson and celadon grapes. The small Tryon train stop was a distribution point as word of mouth spread of the delectable morsels of fruit. A few small wineries appeared, but the region became known for its grapes, winning awards as far away as New York and Canada.
A native of the area, Alvin Pack knew the lore of Tryon grapes, but it was a stay at a bed and breakfast in Saint Helena, California, that captivated Alvin with the love of vineyards. Alvin Pack and his wife Loretta reclined in iron chairs on a flagstone patio just outside their room. Beneath the patio the vineyard flourished with grapes sagging in bountiful clusters. The owners chatted with the Packs as they poured a memorable white wine, the bed and breakfast’s own label.
Alvin had traveled through wineries in France, Germany and Spain, but the bed and breakfast further awakened the dream. The couple eventually settled in the Sonoma Valley in California; however, land values made purchasing large tracts prohibitive to all but the wealthiest residents. Returning to North Carolina and visiting local vineyards, Alvin realized he could open a winery in the area once renowned for its grapes.
He and Loretta united with his sister, Anna Conner, her husband Neb Conner and Virginia Tomlinson, a good friend from San Francisco, who shared his love of wine and grapes, to create Green Creek Winery. Other friends Tom and Shaula Dinsmore, restauranteurs and owners of Stone Hedge Inn bed and breakfast, would cater the food to the winery for special events.
White Oak Mountain, with its Tryon Peak, is the first mountain in the Blue Ridge Chain from the south, a stopping point for many tourists driving from the south. In the foothills of the Blue Ridge, Alvin, Loretta and Alvin's brother Marvin purchased a former apple orchard with a mountain view. Marvin was already growing grapes in nearby Hendersonville. Later, they decided to split the acreage. Marvin would take 9 acres to grow grapes and Green Creek Winery would use one acre for the winery. A good wine begins with the best grapes, and Alvin has high hopes because he knows Marvin is a perfectionist with his vines and grapes.
After harvest, winemaking becomes increasingly complex. From the amount of time the juice remains on the crushed grapes, to refining techniques, to decisions to blend, to the wine’s storage in barrels, every step of the process includes a measure of science designed to enhance the flavor of the finished product.
For his winemaker, Alvin turned to Jay Adams, a former research scientist from the National Institutes of Health who is also a past North Carolina Brewer of the Year and an award-winning winemaker. “Considerations of what will make the wine more flavorful are a balance of art and science,” said Jay. The art and science of winemaking extends even to how the wine is aged. For the majority of barrels, Jay chose French Oak with medium toast and a few American Oak barrels, which sit awaiting harvest.
The vineyard’s bounty will include five acres of chardonnay, an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Chamborcin, which they hope to make into a dry rosé. Two acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have been started as cuttings near the tasting area in view of the mountains. An additional five acres, most likely Merlot and Chardonnay, will be planted at the Stone Hedge Inn bed and breakfast in Tryon in the spring of 2006.
Green Creek officially opened the third week of August. The winery will begin selling their own vintage beginning in the fall of 2006 at the winery, select specialty shops and restaurants. Until that time the winery will market another wine under their label, a common practice among new wineries.
Alvin is also excited about the winery’s ability to host groups, corporate events and especially weddings. Green Creek’s first wedding reservation was set up by a couple from Charlotte prior to the building’s completion.
“People love to get married in wineries,” said Alvin. “In the Sonoma Valley it was not uncommon for couples to wait a year and a half for a wedding in a winery.” The overflowing vines and mountain vistas provide a picturesque back drop as the bride and her father ride up in a horse drawn carriage. The winery’s lawn can accommodate up to a 40 by 70 foot white canopy for up to 250 guests. After the wedding the party may dine on expert catering provided by the Dinsmores while sipping their favorite wine from the vineyard’s vintage on a flagstone patio.
Alvin and his partners have taken a personal approach to the winery, his dream of making a wine to please wine lovers, beginning with himself and his partners. “Good wine is not a matter of price,” said Alvin. “It’s a matter of what you like.”
Green Creek Winery is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 to 5 p.m. For group reservations or more information, please 828-863-2182. The winery is closed in January and on all major holidays.
Directions:
From the south: Take I-26 North to Exit 1, turn right on Landrum Road and travel 5 miles. Turn left on Gilbert Road. Drive .2 miles. The winery is clearly visible on the left.
From the north: Take U.S. 74 Exit 167; drive south 3 miles on N.C. Highway 9. Turn right on Landrum Road. Drive 1 mile and turn right on Gilbert Road. Drive .2 miles. The winery is clearly visible on the left.
A large parking lot with a circular drive and an oversized cul-de-sac are available to accommodate buses and tour groups.
